Exploring the Land of the Sacred Salmon.

Photos of Sumeg Village, Patrick’s Point © David Wakely, Text © Sharon H. Smith.

Outside my window from the Requa Inn, there are tule marshes and the long bend of the Klamath River. Across the water looks like a forested island. Fog fills the sky in layers. Redwood forests mount the hills. It is older than old here. Our view is of a time before us, before settlers, intruders, before us. I’m imagining hollowed out canoes making their way down this river and an abundance of fish. Out there the Yuroks with their nets are ready to gather the sacred, important salmon.

Malcolm gave us directions of where to find the beach near the mouth of the Klamath. He told us it is the place the Yuroks believe life began. Be respectful, he said. This was 30 years ago and the experience still burns bright in my memory.

We were unprepared for what we would see and immediately knew we wouldn’t take pictures. We couldn’t. We could only observe. The scene garnered respect. We were witnessing an ancient custom still gratefully alive today. The ocean was teeming. Waves and seals with birds hovering overhead and salmon dashing through the waves. The sound of life was hitting the shore. It looked to be the way life was before any of us were here.

Many Yuroks at the beach with their rich woven nets were heading out into the water to catch as many fish as they can. It was September and the salmon were running. It was a good year that year. There was a multitude. The cool fall air was filled with cedar smoke and strong smells of the sea. This type of fishing is only allowed by Yurok Tribal law.

There were 20 or so tall wooden boxes scattered around the beach to smoke the fish. Each with a wood fire. The energy was intoxicating. We stepped further back to witness. A tug of war was ensuing too. Seals also vied for the fish and guns were involved. It was still part of the tradition not to be judged.

Salmon to the Yuroks is sacred and necessary. They didn’t seem to mind or maybe were too busy to notice us looking on. We spoke to no one. We felt honored to witness a tradition that has been going on for centuries. It was a peak experience. We witnessed history, the history of our land and the hopeful survival of its original peoples and their customs.

For more information about the Requa Inn go to: http://www.requainn.com